Electric burner not working

Overview

When an electric burner does not heat, cooking stops and safety concerns appear. This guide explains the problem, shows what to look for, and lists simple checks you can do without tools or disassembly. You will see helpful phrases like electric stove burner not heating, glass cooktop not heating, and electric range no heat so the content is easy to find and practical for real kitchens.

Signs and causes

• The burner does not heat at all. Likely causes are a failed burner element, a faulty infinite switch, or missing power on one leg of the power supply. Some models block power due to a control board issue.
• The burner heats weakly. A tired radiant element, poor pan contact on a glass cooktop, undersized cookware, or a warm connector at the terminal block can reduce heat.
• Heat appears then stops quickly. The surface limiter may react to trapped heat, the pan may not sit flat, or residue may fool the sensor. In rare cases the surface limiter or logic is unstable.
• Sparks or a burning smell. This points to heat damage at a connector or wiring near the element. Continued use is unsafe and can lead to a full burner element failure.
• Several burners stop at once. A tripped circuit breaker, a loose cord, or a main control fault can shut down multiple zones. This is different from a single burner element not working.

DIY checks

1. Try other burners. If none heat, the issue is likely supply related such as a breaker or a control board issue.
2. Change heat settings slowly and watch for response. No change suggests a failing infinite switch.
3. Match cookware to the circle. Use a flat bottom pan that covers the zone. Better contact improves cooktop heating performance.
4. Clean the surface after cooling. Sugary spills and heavy residue can trigger the limiter and cause electric cooktop not heating properly.
5. Check the control lock. Touch panels may be locked and show an icon. Unlock using the panel guide.
6. Power cycle the appliance. Turn it off and switch the kitchen breaker fully off for one minute to clear minor logic faults linked to electric range no heat.
7. Test the outlet with a small appliance if reachable and safe. This confirms the receptacle has power on both legs.

If none of these steps help, book a qualified technician for deeper diagnosis. Professional work includes continuity tests of the radiant element, inspection of wiring and the terminal block, evaluation of the infinite switch, and checks of sensors and the control board.

Related issues

Burner heats unevenly

Uneven heating shows as hot and cool zones across the pan. A partial radiant element failure, a loose connector, or warped cookware can create hot spots. Clean the glass and try a flat heavy pan. If the pattern remains, service for the element or receptacle is likely. This is different from a full electric burner not heating because heat still appears but control is poor.

Burner stuck on high heat

If the burner ignores knob changes and stays very hot, the infinite switch problem or a stuck relay on the control board is likely. Power cycle the unit. If behavior does not change, replace the switch or repair the control. This is the opposite of no heat on glass cooktop since power is always on.

Cooktop will not power on

When the entire surface is off, think supply first. Reset a tripped circuit breaker and check a loose plug on corded units. If the oven heats but the surface does not, a separate fuse path may be open. This broader failure differs from a single burner element not heating.

Only inner or outer ring works on a dual element

Dual zones have separate coils for small and large rings. If one ring never heats, the unused circuit is open or the selector contact is dirty. Confirm the ring selection. If the heated area does not change, service the dual radiant element or the selector. This is a targeted fault rather than a general electric stove burner not heating.

Hot surface indicator stays on

The hot surface indicator should turn off when cool. If it stays lit, the sensor or its circuit is stuck. Clean residue, let the area cool, and power cycle. If the light remains on, a sensor or board repair is needed. This is a safety signal issue, not a direct heating failure.

Burner cycles off too quickly

Radiant burners cycle, but very short cycles that prevent cooking suggest a sensitive limiter or poor pan contact. Use flat heavy cookware and keep the surface clean. If short cycling continues, the limiter in the radiant element may need replacement. Heat is present, yet control is unstable.

Indicator light does not work but the burner heats

If the element heats but the surface light remains off, the lamp or its wiring is open. Cooking can continue, but the missing light removes a key safety cue. Plan a repair for the light circuit. This is not a classic electric range no heat problem.

Smell of burning or visible smoke

A hot electrical smell or smoke is an urgent warning. Common sources include a loose connector at the terminal block, a damaged receptacle on coil styles, or carbonized spills under a pot. Turn the unit off, ventilate the room, and stop using the burner until inspected. This often precedes a complete burner element failure.

Cracked glass cooktop with weak or no heat

A cracked top can disrupt sensor feedback and many controls shut the zone down for safety. Do not use a cracked top. Usual repair is a new glass panel and sometimes a new radiant element. This is not the same as an infinite switch problem.

Touch controls unresponsive or show an error

Moisture on the panel, a lock mode, or a stuck key can block input. Dry the panel, remove items resting on it, and unlock if a key icon shows. A one minute power reset can clear minor faults. If the panel stays unresponsive, the user interface or control board needs service and all zones may be affected.

Care

• Match pan size to the circle and keep the bottom flat. Good contact protects the radiant element and improves efficiency.
• Wipe spills after the hot surface indicator turns off. Sugary residue can trip the limiter and cause electric cooktop not heating properly.
• Avoid dragging heavy pots to protect the glass and keep sensors accurate on a glass cooktop.
• Do not boil dry. Overheating stresses the burner element and damages connectors.
• Investigate repeated breaker trips since they signal a supply or component fault in the power supply.

Conclusion

Start with simple steps that do not require tools. Try other zones, clean the surface, use flat matched cookware, unlock the panel, and reset power. If the burner still does not heat, schedule a trained technician to test the burner element, the infinite switch, wiring, and the control board. With careful checks you restore safe and dependable cooking.